The white burgundies from Domaine Joseph (formerly Jean) Pascal in Puligny-Montrachet have become a benchmark for us of what the region can offer, with their amazing fruit purity and a chiselled ("cisele"), focused character, even in the recent run of warmer vintages.

The domaine is just 500 metres from Puligny's village square, home to Domaine Leflaive and Hôtel Le Montrachet, but compared with these starry names it could not be more down to earth, a 'paysanne' domaine (in relative terms). Nevertheless, Pascal's Bourgogne Chardonnay and Puligny's are a staple of Le Montrachet's list...quite a recommendation.

The domaine was started by Joseph Pascal in the early 1900s when he arrived in the village and began working in the vineyards for Domaine Leflaive. Gradually, he acquired his own vines. In the 1950s, with low demand for fine white burgundy, the family also started a vine nursery ("pépinière") which now produces half a million vine rootstocks each year. Now run by Jean's grandson Yann and his wife Alexandra, the domaine's 15 hectares of vineyards are spread over four villages (Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Volnay and Auxey-Duresses). Alexandra is currently serving as the mayor of Puligny and is at the heart of life in the village.

Perhaps being so firmly rooted in viticulture and in the village gives the Pascals their skill at making wines with such brilliant fruit character. Some domaines may produce wines with more layered complexity (at many times the price) but few surpass them when it comes to purity.