Aligoté has done very well in 2023, with lots of ripe, rounded aromas of garden mint and citrus on the nose, no less weight than in '22 but with more freshness, and moderate but balancing acidity on the palate. RKL

This 9 hectare domaine in Mercurey has been family-owned since 1858, but has a new lease of life since Benoît Eschard took over from his uncle, six years ago. Benoît came into winemaking from engineering, an approach which shows in the meticulous overhaul he has given to his vineyard and winery practices. His uncle had been selling the domaine's wine to negociants. Nearly 8 of Benoît's 9 hectares are premier cru, so it was an obvious move to vinify and bottle the wines separately, focusing on terroir.

As you might expect from a former process engineer, the vineyard and winemaking procedures have been improved from end to end. Benoît is especially proud of his team's attention to detail when it comes to the sorting table. Like a number of great winemakers, this is where he positions himself at harvest time, overseeing every berry that comes into the winery.